Featured Wines

Italy’s Warm South

 

By Michael Romer, October 2011

 

                                                                                            The wine world is subject to fashions which

                                                                                            often have good reasons behind them. Both

                                                                                            Spain and Italy are offering wines of great

                                                                                            value, partly because their economic problems

                                                                                            are making producers careful about increasing

                                                                                            prices. The Italian south has had a long

                                                                                            tradition of making huge quantities of wine,

                                                                                            only a little of which had much interest. This

                                                                                            allows the introduction of modern techniques in

                                                                                            vineyard and winery to give almost immediate

                                                                                            short term improvements. There have been

                                                                                            superstars and other good wines from the 

                                                                                            region for some time, but many others are

                                                                                            being rescued from the sea of ordinary wines

                                                                                            by allowing them to fulfil their potential.

 

                                                                                            The south has some of the usual international

                                                                                            grape varieties, but also some not found

elsewhere. In the west of Sicily there are lots of Grillo grapes that were used in the past for making Marsala, the favourite of Nelson’s navy but now much fallen in popularity like most other fortified wines. Perhaps even the River Douro in Portugal will one day produce little Port and lots of table wine. The white wines below are made from two other Sicilian grapes, Catarratto and Inzolia (aka Insolia).

 

Red wines with plenty of character are made from the serious Nero d’Avola and the lighter Frappato. After three Sicilian wines, our last wine is from Puglia. The warmth of this southern area produces many powerful wines but varied vineyard conditions allow happy examples of lighter wines with plenty of flavour.

 

 

Catarratto 2009 - Terre di Ginestra (Sicily white)                                                                        £7.95*

 

Medium gold in colour with peach notes on the nose; mouth-filling and biscuity. An almond fresh finish, with that touch of bitterness and acidity that invites you to take another sip. Goes well with richer fish dishes and mildly spiced flavours.

 

Insolia 2010 - Casa Ibidini (Sicily white)                                                                                        £9.95

 

Orange trees and vines grow side by side in the Acate Valley in the south-east of Sicily not far from Ragusa. By coincidence the wine has a nice touch of citrus, together wirh nuts and that same touch of bitterness on the finish as the Catarratto. Makes an excellent apéritif and goes well with lighter salads.

 

Nero d’Avola 2008 - Terre di Ginestra (Sicily red)                                                                           £7.95

 

The Nero d’Avola grape needs warmth and can produce wines of great quality with aging ability. This spicy full-bodied red is well-developed with cherry notes. Its firm tannin structure demands roasted vegetables or meats or stronger cheeses.

 

Sangiovese 2010 - Villa Cardini (Puglia red)                                                                                   £5.95

 

The Sangiovese grape is used in many of the finest wines of Tuscany. The southern position of Puglia in the heel of Italy still allows the grape to produce wines with elegance and flavour at a modest 12.5% ABV. The touch of tannin on the finish makes the wine go well with pasta dishes and all sorts of other light dishes.

 

 

 

 

 

The Ebro and the Duero: Two Great Spanish Wine Rivers

 

By Michael Romer, September 2011

 

The Ebro River flows eastwards through the Rioja wine region on its way to the Mediterranean. The mountains of the Sierra de Cantabria to the north are a spectacular backdrop for the vineyards, but also act as an umbrella in the same way as in Alsace and elsewhere. Here clouds from the north are forced up and shed their rain before they make it across the mountains. Altitude makes the sub-region of Rioja Alavesa cooler than further downstream and gives a long growing season.

 

Cautivo 2010 (white Rioja)                                                £8.95

 

This white Rioja is 100% Viura and is fermented in

stainless steel. It does not spend time in barrel since the

intention is to produce a fresh medium weight wine to be

enjoyed within a few years of harvest. It is one of those

useful wines with plenty of flavour from a modest 12%

alcohol by volume.

 

 

 

 

 

Lar de Paula Tempranillo 2009 (red Rioja)                                                                                     £8.95

 

                                                          Matured for 6 months, 4 of which are spent in barrels of American oak

                                                          to give that touch of vanilla we expect in Rioja whilst keeping plenty of

                                                          young fruit. Winemaker José Antonio Meruelo has the energetic

                                                          dedication his job requires.

 

                                                          The Duero River flows westwards and changes its name to the Douro

                                                          when it reaches Portugal and travels through the Port region to reach

                                                          the Atlantic at Porto. The altitude of the Ribera del Duero vineyards of

                                                          around 800 metres above sea-level gives cold winters but summers are

                                                          hot. Tempranillo vines live a long time here and give more concentrated

                                                          flavours as their yields decline.

 

The family firm of Tinto Figuero used to sell their grapes to

famous producers, but decided to make their own wine. They

have a state of the art cellar which does not need air-

conditioning since vents direct cool breezes into the bottom

part of the cellar while other vents let warm air escape from

near the cellar roof.

 

Co-founder José Maria Garcia’s car is covered in red dust from

the vineyards because he follows the old adage that the

most important thing you can put in your vineyard is footprints.

That way you see troubles when they can still be fixed. He

proudly showed us the 60 year old vines he planted when he

was 12 years old.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Figuero Roble “4” 2009  - Tinto Figuero (red Ribera del Duero)                                                   £11.95

 

Made from 15-20 year old Tempranillo vines and matured for 4 months in mostly American oak barrels, and then for a further 4 months in bottle before it leaves the cellar. A good general purpose red, excellent with the local lamb cooked in those traditional ovens which look like they could produce pizzas too. A chef kindly demonstrated the temperature gradient by placing my arm in the oven’s mouth.

 

Figuero Reserva “15” 2005 - Tinto Figuero (red Ribera del Duero)                                               £30.00

 

This powerful wine for special occasions is made from Tempranillo vines that are more than 50 years old. The wine has 15 months in new oak, 95% American, and a further 21 months in bottle before leaving the cellar.

 

 

 

 

France: Avoiding the Superior

 

By Michael Romer, July 2011

 

In economics inferior goods are those for

which demand falls as incomes rise.

Polenta was a major part of the diet in

northern Italy when times were hard but

people ate less of it when they could

afford more expensive alternatives. The

term superior goods could be used for

non-investment products which appear

to become more desirable as they become

more expensive. Top red Bordeaux and

some of our financial leaders are superior

products for the moment. The Bordeaux

wines are heading east to China and Japan,

but the value of the leaders is often

confined to their own boardrooms. If

some Bordeaux wines are priced far out

of reach there is adequate consolation

elsewhere in Bordeaux and France. The

three wines are all from the excellent 2009

vintage. It is reassuring to know that the

2010 vintage will also supply many good wines.

 

 

Château des Eyssards Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2009 (white)                                                      £8.95

Bergerac

 

Bordeaux has many wines made from this grape combination, sometimes with added Muscadelle, but Bergerac examples can be even better at the same price. Bergerac is upriver from Bordeaux and used to have to pay shipping tolls to Bordeaux, an unwanted compliment to the quality of their wines. This wine comes from a 38 hectare estate in the south-west of Bergerac. The crisp acidity of the Sauvignon Blanc makes the wine work very well with fish and the Semillon adds weight and further flavours to cope with chicken and richer dishes.

 

Wild Boar Rosé 2009  –  Château Routas (rosé)                                                                            £7.95

Coteaux Varois en Provence

 

Summer is a fine time for rosé. If you have been put off by insipid or sweet rosé from the past it is worth looking at what is now a wide range of wines made from different grape varieties in different parts of the world. Provence has always been a source of good dry rosé, even if some of the wines become a little too ethereal when brought back to Scotland. The wine has an interesting combination of Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah and a little Cabernet Sauvignon. There is no need to seek high priced examples when wines like the Château Routas are available. Sip it by itself as you imagine the sunshine, or serve with summer salads.

 

Château La Croix de Queynac 2009 (red)                                                                                     £7.95

Bordeaux

 

If an Englishman’s home is his castle, a Frenchman’s home must be his château. Some of the châteaux in Bordeaux are more like sheds but La Croix de Queynac is more fortunate in its building. Bordeaux at this price is often made mostly from softer Merlot to be approachable early, but here the wine is only half Merlot with a quarter each of firmer Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The consequent ripe tannin structure makes it go well with roast flavours or the traditional lamb accompaniment.

 

 

 

 

 

Italian wine: History in the Making

 

By Michael Romer, June 2011

 

                                                                                                The iron age site of Botromagno in the heel

                                                                                                 of Italy was occupied through the first

                                                                                                 millennium BCE. The inhabitants will have

                                                                                                 seen the arrival of colonising Greeks armed

                                                                                                 with their own grape varieties, but vine

                                                                                                 growing in Italy goes back at least to

                                                                                                 Etruscan times, long before the irresistible

                                                                                                 spread of the Pax Romana.

                                                                                                 Gravina  2010

                                                                                                 Botromagno (white)                 £8.75*

                                                                                                 The town of Gravina gives its name to the

                                                                                                 wine grown in the area around it. The sole

                                                                                                 producer is the cooperative which takes its

                                                                                                 name from the archaeological site

                                                                                                 separated from the town by a ravine. The

                                                                                                 wine is made from two ancient varieties,

60% Greco and 40% Malvasia. The Greco name points to the Greek origin of the first variety, but Malvasia is also of Greek origin and was widely planted throughout the Mediterranean. The wine has a grapey quality from the Malvasia and a touch of almond nuttiness. There is a resemblance to a good Pinot Blanc from Alsace. It goes well with fuller flavoured fish dishes and can cope with milder spicy flavours.

Pecorino 2010 – Umani Ronchi (white)                                                                                         £9.95

This wine comes from the Chieti district in the Abruzzo region towards the south of Italy. There are many delightful Pecorino sheep cheeses in Italy but the little-known ancient grape variety of the same name may have acquired it because flocks of sheep liked to nibble the grapes as they moved to a new season’s pastures. The firm Umani Ronchi launched a project in 2005 to grow these low yielding grapes and produce a 100% varietal wine. The excellent result is a wine of medium weight and good acidity and hints of peach and apricot. The wine is very good with most fish and summer salads. Try Pecorino wine with mild Pecorino cheese.

Grotta Rossa Carignano del Sulcis 2008 – Santadi (red)                                                                £8.95

Carignano del Sulcis is a delimited area in south-west Sardinia. Jancis Robinson says the Carignan vine was known in south-west France in the 12^th century, but the vines in Sardinia may have come from Spain. This thick-skinned grape produces wine with plenty of colour. Young Carignan vines made to produce large volumes per hectare have given deeply disappointing wines in many areas in the past but good winemakers work with older vines and restricted yields to produce excellent wines with a good structure of fruit and tannin. This wine works well with gamey or spicy dishes.

Primitivo 2008 – Botromagno (red)                                                                                              £9.95

DNA analysis has shown the Primitivo grape to be the same California’s Zinfandel. The hot southern summers of Puglia produce ripe grapes and full-bodied reds, but modern winemaking techniques are used to dealing with such warm climates. The wine shows dark berry fruits on the nose and plenty of soft tannins in the mouth, but no oak. The wine works well with all sorts of roast dishes.

Not only Alice Springs in Australia

By Michael Romer, April 2011

These reflections on Australia are through a

wineglass, not Alice’s looking-glass. This is

supposed to be the time of year to wander

lonely as a cloud and inspect the host of

daffodils. Wordsworth might have observed

that clouds usually have too many companions

rather too few, but the intermittent spring

sunshine in the Meadows has already been

hazed with the smoke of barbecues. If you

are brave enough to attempt open air cooking

the full flavours of the wines below will show

well.

Viognier 2009  –  Langmeil              £12.50

The strong German influence in the Barossa

Valley did not restrict them to Riesling and

other whites. Although the present owners

bought the business in 1996 there are some

Shiraz vines on the property that were planted

in 1843. Langmeil have only one white wine available in the UK but it is good example of Viognier’s full-bodied peachy, apricot flavours that go so well with spicy curries or Chinese or Thai dishes.

Elizabeth Semillon 2005  –  Mount Pleasant                                                                               £10.75

Many grape varieties have places where they show particularly well. The Hunter Valley not far from Sydney is rightly famous for its Semillons. The wines need a few years to develop and then may last a decade or more. It is wonderful that the producers have kept the Elizabeth off the market until it is ready to drink, but the wine will continue to get more powerful over the next few years. A touch of lemon acidity and honey make the wine excellent with richer fish dishes, but it is also good with white meats and firmer cheeses.

Die Kegelbahn Shiraz Cabernet 2008  –  Langmeil                                                                      £11.50

The Kegelbahn or bowling alley is used for a difficult version of skittles. Langmeil produce several reds at higher prices but this wine is a good introduction to their style. The wine has lots of blackcurrant and sweet spiciness that make a glass a pleasure to drink on its own whilst the food cooks on the barbecue.

Two Gentleman’s Grenache 2006  –  Pertaringa                                                                          £15.75

In 1981 the two gentlemen Ian Leask and Geoffrey Hardy bought the Pertaringa property which lies about 40 kilometres south of Adelaide in McLaren Vale. Geoff is from the side of the Hardy family that went for small high quality production when the other side aimed to give pleasure to millions. Grenache or Garnacha is a grape that thrives in the heat but here its growing season is lengthened by altitude and by maritime influence. Hints of cherries and a touch of oak contribute to a versatile wine that will go with all sorts of roast flavours as well as lighter summer dishes.

By Michael Romer, March 2011

                                                                                     Sherry was often used to liven up dull meetings.

                                                                                     Wines of alcoholic strength of 16 to 18% by volume

                                                                                     are absorbed most quickly by the body. Thimbles

                                                                                     of sherry held just enough to waken people for

                                                                                     twenty minutes before they returned to mental

                                                                                     hibernation. The Spanish sensibly serve their wines

                                                                                     with food to avoid this flash in the brain-pan.

                                                                                     The sherry region is near Cadiz in the south of

                                                                                     Spain. The two major categories of sherry are fino

                                                                                     and oloroso, both made from the Palomino grape.

                                                                                     Finos develop a protective layer of floating yeast

                                                                                     known as the “flor,” or flower. It looks like the

                                                                                     outside of young Camembert or Brie. Fino casks

                                                                                     are kept only five-sixths full to leave a large

                                                                                     surface area for the flor to flourish and keep the

                                                                                     wine pale coloured and fresh tasting. In olorosos

                                                                                     the flor does not develop well and is made to disappear by fortifying the wine to 18% alcohol by volume. The oloroso casks are kept filled up but oxidation deepens the colour and gives nutty aldehyde tastes to the wine.

Fino  –  Barbadillo                                                                                                                         £7.95

The dryness and lightness of finos are delightful with olives or almonds, but also with many fish dishes.  Try also manzanilla, which can be thought of a fino produced in the cooler damper cellars of the town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda.  Flor dies back in the cold of winter and the heat of summer, but these climate variations are smaller in seaside Sanlucar. The thicker, more persistent flor helps make the wine even fresher and lighter than fino.  Finos and manzanillas are best served cool or cold.  My own preference with other sherries is to serve the medium ones slightly cool and the sweet sherries cold but not chilled, but views differ.

Dry Oloroso  –  Barbadillo                                                                                                             £8.95

Oloroso means sweet-smelling or fragrant.  In his book Sherry Julian Jeffs quotes Manuel Gonzalez-Gordon’s taste comparisons of fino to almonds, amontillado to hazelnuts and ororoso to walnuts.  This wine is much darker and fuller-bodied than the fino.  It is excellent before or after a meal and it goes well with many soups and cheeses.

A Winter’s Tale Amontillado  –  Williams & Humbert                                                                      £9.95

Finos and olorosos are dry because all their sugar has been fermented to alcohol.  One way of sweetening sherries is to use some form of the Pedro Ximénez (or PX) grape which has very high sugar level when ripe.  (Pure PX wines are very popular at Christmastime because their flavours of figs, raisins and other fruits replace or go well with Christmas pudding.  Raisins soaked for a few hours in PX are delightful on top of ice-cream in summer.)  Williams & Humbert sell a slightly cheaper medium sherry but this one has far more interest.

Walnut Brown  –  Williams & Humbert                                                                                          £8.95

This sweet style of sherry was a favourite with the Victorians at the end of a meal.  When Charles Dickens died in 1870 there were 12 dozen bottles of brown sherry amongst the 185 dozen bottles in his cellar.  He was an entertaining man.  This wine has some Moscatel as well as PX to sweeten it and add further variations to the flavour.

Wandering by the Western Med in France

By Michael Romer, February 2011

In winter one’s mind sometimes drifts south.

Some lucky people let their bodies drift in

that direction too.  Our three wines come

from areas reaching or close to France’s

western Mediterranean coast.  All are

domaine bottled.  Most good producers

want to bottle their wines themselves to

make sure nothing happens to lower the

quality that they have worked so hard to

achieve.

Picpoul de Pinet 2009 – Domaine Azan (white)                                                                            £7.95

The Picpoul grape only achieves fame in the controlled appellation area around the town of Pinet, which lies west of Sète and north of Cap d’Agde.  The grape’s name conceals a warning and a virtue.  Picpoul means lip-stinger because pique is sting and poule is lip in the local dialect.  Wine made from this grape was lip-stinging because it retained its acidity in the southern heat.  As grapes ripen their sugars rise and their acids drop.  A certain acidity is necessary in wines and people, but you won’t be stung if you buy this wine.  The organic wine that Floriane and Olivier Azan produce from their estate has the characteristic light citric freshness which makes the wine delightful by itself or with fish or chicken.

Tannat 2009 – Domaine de Petit Roubié (red)                                                                             £7.95

Pays d’Hérault, Indication Géographique Protégée

Hérault is a large region that stretches from around Montpellier in the east to beyond Béziers in the west.  The Tannat grape used to produce rustic monsters with rasping tannins that could turn your tongue to leather.  Modern winemaking controls this tendency and allows ripe tannins to give plenty of structure without a harsh finish.  The Tannat grape has been associated with “the French paradox” where the French eat things like goose and duck fat without suffering the punishments that such dietary crimes richly deserve.  It has been suggested that the wine may counteract any harmful effects, but you probably get the benefit only if you go to live in the area and enjoy leisurely meals made from the best ingredients.  This organic Tannat will stand up well to all sorts of roast flavours.

La Vista 2008 (red)                                                                                                                      £8.95

AC Côtes du Roussillon Villages

Villages wines come from the northern third of the Roussillon appellation.  The culture of the area has been Catalan.  Its southern political boundary with Spain did not form an obstacle to movements of people practising transhumance by moving with their herds in summer to the higher mountain pastures on both sides of the Pyrenees. La Vista is that familiar blend of Grenache and Syrah that works so well further east in the southern Rhône.  It goes well with all sorts of gamey and spicy flavours.

Winter Solstice Solace

By Michael Romer, December 2010

Winter makes some of us revert to hunter-gatherers as we lay in our provisions against the storms ahead. The best items in the store cupboard are those that can be used in many ways.  The wines here will cover a wide range of occasions. 

Macon-Villages Les Abbatiales 2008 - Quinson (white)                                                                 £8.95

Southern Burgundy, France

Wines from the Macon area have become really good during the last ten years or so.  Maybe the town-cellars near the river are not flooding as often as they used to.  This unoaked Chardonnay works well with fish and the white meats of Christmastime.  Its medium weight will not tax the digestion of your guests.  If they fall asleep when you are talking to them change your conversation rather than the wine with its modest 12½% alcohol.

Stoney Range Sauvignon Blanc 2010 – Sherwood (white)                                                           £7.95

Marlborough, South Island,  New Zealand

The clean acidity of Sauvignon Blanc makes a pleasing contrast to the Macon.  The Sauvignon will go even better with fish dishes that need more acidity.  Its exuberant fruit makes it fine with spicier flavours.  If you like this combination of fruit and acidity you could always risk a Riesling.  Sherwood has a nice one at £8.95, as does the Hunawihr Co-operative from Alsace.

Merlot 2009 – Casa Defra (red)                                                                                                    £5.95

Colli Berici, Italy

There is often a lot to be said for a lighter touch in reds.  This Merlot comes from the Berici hills, an area that lies closer to Verona than to Venice.  The hills have been vine-clad since the 13^th century with good reason.  The wine is nicely structured with soft tannins.  It goes well with salmon as well as ham, turkey and many pasta dishes and milder cheeses.

The Opportunist Shiraz 2008  –  One Chain Vineyards   (red)                                                       £5.95

This big Shiraz comes from the Limestone Coast, the part of South Australia that stretches from the Victoria border to near Adelaide.  It is good for sipping with all sorts of spicy, gamey dishes or a warming shepherds pie as the wind rattles your windowpanes.

                                                                                       Miguel Torres recently made a rare visit to

                                                                                       Edinburgh to talk about his firm’s wines from Chile

                                                                                       and Spain. In Catalonia in north-east Spain

                                                                                       Torres produce large volumes of very drinkable

                                                                                       wines as well as smaller volumes of some

                                                                                       exceptional wines, often from higher vineyard

                                                                                       sites. The firm has now expanded into other areas

                                                                                       of Spain.

                                                                                       Their Chilean adventure started in 1979 when

                                                                                       Miguel Torres realised that Chile offered ideal

                                                                                       vineyard conditions.  A twenty centigrade degree

                                                                                       difference between day and night temperatures

                                                                                       helps fix flavours. There is no phylloxera, the bug

                                                                                       that kills off vines, and the vines are free of most

                                                                                       European viruses. There was also a

                                                                                       knowledgeable workforce who were used to

                                                                                       working with local vine varieties and could easily

                                                                                       switch to tending the vines Torres wanted to grow.  The volcano beside the Torres vineyards has been quiet for centuries, but Miguel still checks it first thing every morning when he is there.

When he glanced out at a rainy Scottish afternoon he remarked that our weather had not changed since his last visit.  If global warming affects the current wine areas in Chile, winemakers can move south to plant vineyards closer to the Antarctic or west closer to the cold currents of the sea.  Perhaps the future will favour countries with a large north-south extension.

I asked Miguel why his firm did not go organic since I know they avoid herbicides and insecticides.  He replied they sometimes control pests by using biological means not sanctioned in the organic rules. A producer at a recent seminar pointed out a similar problem in becoming biodynamic in South Africa because the rules were made for the northern hemisphere.

Viña Esmeralda 2009  – Torres (white)                                                              Spain, Catalunya £7.50

This Catalan white is 85% Muscat and 15% Gewurztraminer. This grape mix has remained unchanged through many vintages.  Muscat can give a lot of flavour at low alcohol levels. Its modest 11.5% will not exaggerate hot flavours in Thai and spicy dishes. The wine recently received an honourable mention from Rose Murray Brown in The Scotsman. 

Sauvignon Blanc 2009  – Torres (white)                                                        Chile, Central Valley £7.95

Chile provides many cool areas where Sauvignon can flourish and keep its aromatic freshness. Torres provide a versatile example that is lovely by itself, or with fish or white meats.  Miguel Torres says they aim to be more Loire than New Zealand, but it is somewhere pleasantly in-between.

Carmenère Reserve 2008  –  Torres (red)                                                      Chile, Central Valley £8.50

Carmenère used to be grown in Bordeaux in the 18^th Century.  This wine macerates with its grape skins for four weeks to extract colour and flavours.  Its good tannin structure makes it excellent for roasts and game.

Mas la Plana 2005  –  Torres (red)                                                                   Spain, Catalunya £28.50

This wine from a single vineyard of 29 hectares achieved fame for winning competitions against top French wines at several times the price.  Do not refuse the chance to taste it.  If you need a second opinion on a bottle, let me know.

Castillo del Moro Airén & Sauvignon Blanc 2009 

(white)                                                        £4.99

This vino de la tierra, or vin de pays, of Castile comes

from an area which includes the vast plain of la Mancha

where Don Quixote used to fight wind-farms.  In the

past the Airén grape produced rather dull wine but

modern temperature control keeps its interesting

flavours from being boiled off.  The wine finishes well

with the freshness of the Sauvignon Blanc.  This wine

was served with the first course at a recent grand

dinner and those who came to buy it afterwards were

surprised at its modest price.

Marqués de Riscal 2009 (white)                  £7.95

Riscal is famous for producing high quality red wines

from Rioja, but they look to the Rueda region to produce their white wines.  The 100% Viura wines of Rioja can be bland but Riscal expand their palette with Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc in Rueda.  This wine is 85% Verdejo and 15% Viura and has an aromatic acidity similar to a softer Sauvignon Blanc.  Its freshness is preserved by using stainless steel and no oak.  The wine is fine by itself or with fish or chicken or salads.

Señorio de los Llanos Crianza 2006  (red)                                                                                     £6.95

Valdepeñas lies just below La Mancha and has been a long–term source of good value wines.  Señorio de los Llanos means the estate of the plains.  The Tempranillo grape gives plenty of flavour whilst keeping to a modest 12½% alcohol by volume.  The wine will gather enough strength for roast meats and vegetables, but is also fine with lighter dishes.

Ochoa Garnacha & Tempranillo 2008  (red)                                                                                   £8.50

This Navarra wine illustrates how well the softer Garnacha or Grenache combines with the more tannic Tempranillo.  Grenache is also a good mixer in its happy combinations with Syrah in the southern Rhõne.  The Ochoa family have been associated with wine in Navarra for over six centuries and their present wine cellar goes back to 1845.  All their wine is made from grapes grown on their own estates.  Ocho means eight in Spanish and one family member used to sign his name 8a.  There was number confusion in the opposite direction when the makers of the Irish film Once kept the same title in Spain where the word means eleven.  Spanish cinema-goers must have worried that if the first love affair was taking so long they’d be there all night for the other ten.

Chablis 2009 — Victor Bérard   (white)                                                                                         £9.95

Premier Cru and Grand Cru Chablis often come from older vintages but standard level Chablis is usually from the most recent vintage or the one before.  This can make life dull if there are two bad vintages in a row, but luckily 2009 provided Chablis with lots of flavour to balance nice steely acidity.  At the moment this wine is great with fish, but hold on to it for another year or so and it will be even better and more versatile.

Château La Freynelle 2008  (red)                                                                                                  £8.50

Most people in Bordeaux stick to traditional corks but Véronique Barthe, the owner of this château, is an oenologist.  She uses a Stelvin or screwtop closure to preserve the fruit in a wine that is made to be drunk young.  Although  the wine contains Cabernet Sauvignon the dominant impression is of soft flavours from the Merlot.  Some people in Bordeaux are making their wines approachable sooner by picking later, but the riper soft tannins in the grapes are combined with higher sugar levels and consequent higher alcohol levels.  The Freynelle avoids this trap and keeps to a traditional Bordeaux level of 12.5% alcohol.  Like so many Bordeaux this wine goes well with a huge range of dishes from game to cheese.

Château la Clyde 2005  (red)                                                                                                        £9.95

The château name should be pronounced to rhyme with creed not cried, but it is impossible to avoid the temptation of the latter pronunciation.  This wine has a more tannic structure than the Château Freynelle and takes longer to develop.  It has some Cabernet Franc and a bit of Malbec as well as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  The 2005 showed up very well at a recent tasting, but should continue to get better over the next year or so.